Strategy in Protecting Skin from Environmental Stresses: From Light to Pollution Aggression

Time: 12:00 - 12:30

Date: 4 July 2018

Theatre: The Royal Society of Medicine


BONY, Emilie¹; BOUTOT, Carine¹; FILAIRE, Edith²,³,4 ; BERTHON, Jean-Yves¹ 

¹Greentech. Biopôle Clermont-Limagne 63360 Saint Beauzire, France
²CIAMS, Université Paris-Sud, Université Paris-Saclay, 91405 Orsay Cedex, France
³ CIAMS, Université d’Orléans, 45067, Orléans, France.
4 Université Clermont Auvergne, UMR 1019 INRA-UcA, UNH (Human Nutrition Unity), ECREIN Team, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France

Contact mail first author: (0033)0473339900

The skin is routinely exposed to environmental stresses that come from light or pollution exposition, affecting profoundly skin physiology such as inflammation, dehydration and premature skin ageing, and leading to irreversible consequences. In order to provide cosmetic solutions for skin protection, we developed two powerful active ingredients with global anti-pollution and photoprotection efficacy.

We studied the potential of a Schisandra chinensis extract (SCE), particularly enriched in lignans, to enhance skin defense mechanisms involved in pollution stress response, with the main pathways involved in skin being NF-kB, Nrf2, DJ-1, and AhR signaling pathways. We showed that SCE was able to maintain the redox balance, to limit the inflammation and to protect skin against AhR induced-ROS production in an in vitro model stressed by Urban dust. Moreover, in a skin equivalent model stressed by Urban dust, SCE also increased epidermal thickness limiting pollutants penetration, strengthened the skin barrier function and improved dermal function.  By acting at cellular and tissue level, SCE was able to limit oxidative stress and inflammation induced by pollution suggesting that this active extract may provide a wide and global skin protection against daily environmental aggressions.

Skin exposure to ultra violet irradiation (UVR) has many detrimental cutaneous effects, including erythaema, ocular damage, photoageing and even skin cancers. But protection against UVR alone is not sufficient to prevent skin disorders: approximately 50% of free radicals in the skin originate from visible light and infrared (IR). The harmful effects of blue light from artificial sources (smartphones, screens…) also become an important issue for public health and skin ageing. There has been considerable interest in using botanical agents for the prevention of skin damage caused by exposure to solar UVR. From Buddleja officinalis (BO), adapted to high levels of sunlight exposure in Chinese mountains by exceptional richness in phenylpropanoids, we developed an innovative global photo protector Extract (BOE) concentrated in verbascoside and echinacoside that protects against the damaging effects of UV, blue light and infrared radiations.


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