Wednesday 4 July


08:30 – 09:15       Registration

09:15 - 09:30

Opening Welcome

09:30 - 10:00

Our Forgotten Friends – The Cutaneous Microbiota of Humans

This presentation will introduce the concept of Homo sapiens as a symbiotic association consisting of a mammal and its microbial inhabitants. The ecological factors underlying and controlling this symbiosis will then be outlined. The main features of the cutaneous environment will be described and how these affect the types of microbes that colonise the skin. Variations in the cutaneous environment at different regions of the skin will then be discussed. The composition of the microbial communities that inhabit the various regions of the skin will be revealed and the results obtained from the two main analytical approaches used (culture and culture-independent techniques) will be compared and contrasted. The role of beneficial and antagonistic interactions between microbes in maintaining stable communities will be reviewed. The importance of microbes other than bacteria as members of the cutaneous microbiota will be emphasised. The use of metagenomic approaches to reveal the activities of cutaneous microbial communities will be described.

10:00 - 10:30

Topical Probiotics, Innovative Therapies for Skin Health and Well-Being

Probiotics are defined as ‘live micro-organisms, which when administered in adequate amounts, provide a health benefit on the host’. To date most organisms defined as ‘probiotic’ are members of the gut microbiota, e.g. species of Lactobacillus. There is increasing evidence that lactobaciili are useful for the treatment/prevention of a variety of conditions of the gut.

Recently, it has become popular to include lactobacilli in topical formulations. Although in this context they cannot be considered ‘probiotic’, lactobacilli do have enormous capacity to change the physiology of the skin. In this talk, I will review the data supporting their use and describe the work my group does developing lactobacilli as novel therapies for skin.

10:30 - 11:00

Ageing Skin, Bioenergy, Oxidative Stress and the Environment: the Role of Mitochondria in this Dynamic

Oxidative stress is the resultant damage due to redox imbalances and is linked to ageing in many tissues including skin.  In ageing skin there are bioenergetic differences between keratinocytes and fibroblasts which provide a potential ageing biomarker. The differences in skin bioenergy are part of the mitochondrial theory of ageing which remains one of the most widely accepted ageing theories describing subsequent increasing free radical generation. Mitochondria are the major source of cellular oxidative stress and form part of the vicious cycle theory of ageing. External and internal sources of oxidative stress include UVR/IR, pollution (environment), lifestyle (exercise and diet), alcohol and smoking all of which may potentially impact on skin.  This also links to differences in skin cell types in terms of the UVR action spectrum for nuclear and mitochondrial DNA damage (UVR biomarker in skin). Recent work associates bioenergy production and oxidative stress with pigment production.

11:30 - 12:00

How CSI-type/DNA Technology is Taking Supply Chain Transparency – Beyond Belief to Forensic Security

Ask yourself every time you purchase a personal care product, "is this genuine?"

Even though we are all experts in the beauty industry, none of us can be absolutely certain. Supply chains are often global and complicated, and we know fraud is everywhere. At one extreme there are criminals profiting from counterfeiting, while at the other end of the spectrum, there are discrepancies due to human error.

Thanks to advances in new technologies, individual ingredients, products, packaging and even the ink used to write batch codes etc., can be uniquely tagged at the molecular level.

Blockchain-ready, CSI-type/DNA technologies enable true radical transparency, authenticating the origins of materials and so proving claims of sustainable sourcing etc., even in processed final formulas. From the flower to the fragrance, DNA reveals all.

12:00 - 12:30

Strategy in Protecting Skin from Environmental Stresses: From Light to Pollution Aggression

BONY, Emilie¹; BOUTOT, Carine¹; FILAIRE, Edith²,³,4 ; BERTHON, Jean-Yves¹ 

¹Greentech. Biopôle Clermont-Limagne 63360 Saint Beauzire, France
²CIAMS, Université Paris-Sud, Université Paris-Saclay, 91405 Orsay Cedex, France
³ CIAMS, Université d'Orléans, 45067, Orléans, France.
4 Université Clermont Auvergne, UMR 1019 INRA-UcA, UNH (Human Nutrition Unity), ECREIN Team, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France

Contact mail first author: (0033)0473339900

The skin is routinely exposed to environmental stresses that come from light or pollution exposition, affecting profoundly skin physiology such as inflammation, dehydration and premature skin ageing, and leading to irreversible consequences. In order to provide cosmetic solutions for skin protection, we developed two powerful active ingredients with global anti-pollution and photoprotection efficacy.

We studied the potential of a Schisandra chinensis extract (SCE), particularly enriched in lignans, to enhance skin defense mechanisms involved in pollution stress response, with the main pathways involved in skin being NF-kB, Nrf2, DJ-1, and AhR signaling pathways. We showed that SCE was able to maintain the redox balance, to limit the inflammation and to protect skin against AhR induced-ROS production in an in vitro model stressed by Urban dust. Moreover, in a skin equivalent model stressed by Urban dust, SCE also increased epidermal thickness limiting pollutants penetration, strengthened the skin barrier function and improved dermal function.  By acting at cellular and tissue level, SCE was able to limit oxidative stress and inflammation induced by pollution suggesting that this active extract may provide a wide and global skin protection against daily environmental aggressions.

Skin exposure to ultra violet irradiation (UVR) has many detrimental cutaneous effects, including erythaema, ocular damage, photoageing and even skin cancers. But protection against UVR alone is not sufficient to prevent skin disorders: approximately 50% of free radicals in the skin originate from visible light and infrared (IR). The harmful effects of blue light from artificial sources (smartphones, screens…) also become an important issue for public health and skin ageing. There has been considerable interest in using botanical agents for the prevention of skin damage caused by exposure to solar UVR. From Buddleja officinalis (BO), adapted to high levels of sunlight exposure in Chinese mountains by exceptional richness in phenylpropanoids, we developed an innovative global photo protector Extract (BOE) concentrated in verbascoside and echinacoside that protects against the damaging effects of UV, blue light and infrared radiations.

12:30 - 13:00

The Importance of Using Protection

An insight into the UK consumer habits and opinions on the use of sun-care. This talk focusses on the importance of how sun-care products are applied with regards to their functionality. To understand how the protection offered by SPF products varies depending on the application method, data comparing instances of sunburn with how carefully the sun-care was applied was reviewed. To promote the correct use of sun-cream the incorporation of functional ingredients to create a more luxurious and desirable feel to the products has been researched. An overview of starches available in AkzoNobel’s raw material range will be presented to demonstrate how formulations can be modified to achieve a more desirable and appealing texture, that would encourage better application of sun-care products by the consumer.

13:00 - 13:30

Discovering the Microbiome: for Skincare As Unique As You Are

At Givaudan, innovation is in our DNA: we thrive on the challenge of constantly pushing boundaries to develop new ideas and enhance existing concepts. Seven years ago we launched a pioneering research project into the relationship between the human microbiome and our health, beauty and wellbeing. The project has since become the most in-depth study on this subject by any fragrance house, and our findings have led to a revolutionary new range of ingredients.

Our Centre of Excellence for Applied Microbiomics in Toulouse is fully equipped to create innovative products based on our studies, our strong knowledge of consumers and the large internal database we have built up throughout this project.

Our Active Beauty teams continue to develop active cosmetic ingredients, designed to activateprotect or balance the skin microbiota. For example, we offer Revivyl™, which speeds up skin renewal while protecting the microbiota and Brightenyl™, which is activated by the microbiota to trigger skin tone optimisation.


13:30 Lunch Break & Table Top Exhibition



14:30 - 15:00

A New, Multifaceted Approach Toward Skin Moisturisation

The role of vitamin D, in the skin is well described in scientific literature. Particularly interesting is its role in skin processes relevant to moisture levels. Vitamin D deficiency is common in people suffering from atopic dermatitis, a skin disease that is associated with reduced skin barrier function and skin dryness. Additionally, vitamin D is an important initiator of filaggrin production, which is of particular note in this context, filaggrin being the most important raw material for the production of NMF.

MultiMoist, the latest product to be developed by CLR Berlin, has been shown, in-vitro, to have significant activity in stimulating the efficiency of  Vitamin D receptors in skin cells.

In-vivo it was shown through 6 different in-vivo tests to improve the moisture levels in the skin and improve qualities, such as skin smoothness, which are indicators of well moisturised skin.

15:00 - 15:30

Quantified Self and Digital Beauty Devices

As the skincare industry shifts away from anti-ageing and the traditional bricks and mortar sales model, new opportunities are arising for the application of technology in the beauty marketplace. In this presentation I will explore the current landscape in terms of the “Quantified Self” trend, explain how augmented reality can drive increased sales, and review a recent study exploring consumer expectations of the industry. Looking to the future the key trends which will contribute to brand delivery will be shared along with a detailed analysis of influences from industries as diverse as construction, technology and food. Future claims trends will be analysed and a WTF (What’s The Future) approach taken to show how all these factors will combine and contribute to Beauty 2.0, with efficacy at its heart.

15:30 - 16:00

Augmenting Skincare Formulations with Engineering and Digital Innovations for Optimised User Benefit

Engineering based devices and digital technologies are transforming nearly all industries, creating opportunities that were not previously possible.  One notable industry is the medical health industry where devices and digital technologies have been adopted to work alongside drug formulation to meet the common objective of supporting better outcomes for patients.  Prime examples of this include drug eluting stents for management of cardiovascular disease and device technology to support patients manage their diabetes This trend is transferring into the cosmetics industry, but full benefit from these technologies has yet to be realised.

This may be because device technologies are often designed in isolation from formulation, which rarely leads to optimal consumer benefit.  What can we learn from other industries and what new opportunities await the cosmetic industry when formulation science and device technology work together to support greater outcomes for the consumer?

16:30 - 17:00

When Marketing Met Science, The Development of No7 Match Made

For most women, conditions in store and the overwhelming product choice available make shopping for the right cosmetic products challenging.  We at No7 used our consumer understanding, expertise in colour science and product development to address this. In the session we will cover the development journey for No7 Match Made from idea conception to delivery in store.

17:00 - 17:30

Customisation of Lipsticks Using 3D Printing Technology

Cosmetics are presently manufactured by large scale traditional methods – ‘one size fits all’. 3D printing technology has begun to be employed in the cosmetics field for making products and for packaging prototyping. Developments in 3D printing foreshadow the end of standardisation and the beginning of personalised products capable of meeting individual consumer preferences and improving the quality of life. This talk explores the way in which this has been achieved with reference to the manufacturing of bespoke lipstick. The shade of a lipstick and its rheology are already subject to personalisation. However, the application can be achieved in a more convenient way than using traditional methods such as a swivel-up tube. Therefore, the possibility of developing a methodology for manufacturing an innovative personalised lipstick applicator using 3D printing technology is discussed.

17:30 - 18:00

Closing Remarks